Installing a Watermaker

I haven't really put much personal info in here. It's been more like a documentation of work. Basically it is, but, I think I'l break the monotony a little.

I'm working on taking this vessel to the S. Pacific.  So, a lot of the work/upgrading is based on the tropical climate. I need a vessel that can take strong force winds and be efficient for it's size. And I want a vessel that doesn't leak from top or bottom. I don't mind living in high humidity, but I don't want a swamp under me either. So one of the last internal items to be added is this; Installing a Watermaker.

I would have liked to have a Spectra 200T or Cape Horn due to it's shorter run times in relation to amps. But a couple items makes it unfeasible. The size of the compartment available is just a little too short for the C.H.  As well, the 200T needs to be in warmer waters (>50º F) due to it's pressure. I could have dealt with that buy extremely conserving water until I got farther south before starting up the system. Like maybe Oregon/Cal. border.  But I'd also like to see this thing work before heading off.  So, I'll be going with the Deluxe 150 unit.

Here's the space that it's going into. On the right are two 17 gl. tanks that have been in the vessel, since I acquired it. They are nice and clean. They've only had tap water in them as far as I know.

A closer view. The thruhull on the left is the waste outlet from the head.  It's nice and clean, no smell!

And behind the seat I'm installing an additional 25 gl. water tank.

Here, behind the seat is a nice void where I can install an extra water tank. It's a leaning "V" shape with a little radius from top to bottom, which turned out to be a 63" radius.   Also, it tapers forward (to the left). This is the Stbd side amidship.

After selecting the tank, this is the board size that needs to carry the footprint of the tank.

Here are drawings of the hull shape viewed from top to bottom......

and then fore & aft.  I selected about 4 tanks from a dealer that are pre-made. And then cut out to scale patterns the shape of each tank and tried fitting each into the drawing. I couldn't find anyone to make a custom tank to fit the hull shape.

Here's the tank that I selected. It only fills about half of the space. Had the fittings installed per my instruction. And selected it with two 3/4" pipe fittings on the end and a 2" pipe on top surface. The bottom fitting is for the water-out line. The top 3/4" fitting is for the vent. And the 2" top surface fitting it for a 2" inspection cap and fill-line.

The bottom support is screwed to the bulkhead and tabbed to the hull, to allow flexing on the hull side.

Those forms are cut to support the tank. It's not a perfect match but I'll shim later to support gaps.

Here, the forms partly tabbed in place and wait to cure.

Notched and also added a cross wood it help with support. This is a 25 gl. tank, which weighs in at about 208 lb. So every bit of support will keep it from moving around in a rough sea.

The braces fully tabbed in place. I had to cut away part of the upright edge to get the tank out. A little fault that I had planned for, but forgot, being anxious to get it in. This tank took 3 weeks form start to finish to get in.

Here, the tank fully installed. I sistered in the upright edge and made some brackets to hold the tank down. There are also a couple blocks each on the bulkhead and base to keep the tank from moving.

Now I need to order the Spectra and install it in this space! The white board is a bilge access cover.

More to come after the watermaker arrives. ;-)

It's here, 2/9/13 ............................

And it all fits in with room to spare.

The mounting board epoxied and screwed in place.

Pump in place................................

 All the other pieces mounted in place

A couple steps back for better view...................................

Starting the plumbing.................................

 Here everything mounted with the added product valves for duel tanks.

Here the plumbing to the upper/outboard tank #3 and over board discharge, which it T'ed into a bilge pump line. I doubt I'll be making water if the bilge pump EVER comes on.

Here's all the the piping installed, except the thruhull for the inlet line, which I'll install in the spring durning the haul out.  I heard it was difficult to install water makers but don't know why. Pretty simple to me!

 A view looking aft over the #1 & #2 tanks. They are mis-marked here but the aft tank is now the #2. There is a valve next to the #2 tank that I shut off to isolate #2 from #3. With the valve open the #3 will gravity flow into the #2 tank. This saves having to add another hose and valve under the sink.

A couple views with the settee cover on.....................

And with the lids in place...........................

And then of course the thruhull fitting...... On the inside the bilge was so shallow that I had to custom make a seacock fitting (street elbow) so that it would fit under the deck. Pictures later.

Solon Table

The boat never had a solon table as far as I know. This summer I used the fold down leaf that I added to the side of the sink cabinet. It worked OK but the only place to sit was on the stairs or the corner of the port settee.

I had some old teak boards from an old gangway entry and used those to build a box clamp that goes around the mast.

To that I added a table with a fold leaf that is also supported by the main bulkhead.

It's just the right height that I can store a 5 gl. bucket or the generator beneath it.

I've added another section that attaches to the main section and is supported by it and the lower part of the mast, which can be removed for access to deck plates underneath, so I don't bag my head while doing maintenance in the bilge.

Pictures to come later---work is still in progress........................

Larger Battery Bank

I already have two group 27 high amp Batteries, but with the new refer I knew I would need more. And eventually I'll be adding solar panels so I'll need a place to store the extra power. With just the gp 27's I could go two days without recharging but with the new refer that would probably bring it down to one day.
   I had this large empty space behind the motor and since it is ventilated while the motor is running/charging it made the perfect place for the new batteries. As well, the gr 27 batteries are vented into the engine space.

The base for holding the battery box...........

Aft mountings for holding the base. Attached to the strut thru bolts.

I made a pair of 3/4" studs that screwed onto the 3/8" thru bolts, and added washers/nuts to hold it down.

Also added a front and side tabs to help support the base.

Reinforced the corners with wood and epoxy filler, then glassed over with a couple layers and faired in for the paint work.

Added a couple straps with release levers to hold the battery box in place.

 And since the battery box was 6' away from the selector switch, I went with all new 2/0 maine battery cables.

I also added a 2000 watt inverter, which required using 1/0 cable, but I went to the 2/0 through out the system except the starter cable. Which I left as a #2 cable.

I couldn't find a terminal crimper locally that was large enough so I just modified a hydraulic one that I had to do the job.

Finish product.................................. Then added heat shrink insulation.

I went with two 6V deep cell batteries in series for the house side of the switch, only because they were so heavy I couldn't get a large 12V into the space w/o special help.  I prefer being independent, not relying on other people to help.

These are the gp 27's with all new cables with breaker switches.

Also added a Yandina 160 combiner to charge both banks while running. In the back is the breaker for the house (2-6V) batteries.
  The starter cable is hooked to the common of the selector switch, which goes threw either the 27's breaker #1 or house breaker #2, or both.

I also have a gp 27 battery up forward for the windlass and wash-down pump, which is attached to the common of the selector switch. It is controlled by a Yandina 50 combiner at the battery. See the windlass page.

Adding a Refrigerator

This summers cruise got me to thinking I need more cooler space that is EZ to access. The Ice box is fine for drinks and stuff that can get wet but there was never enough space for jars and square containers for supplies and leftovers.
I already have a portable 12V cooler that I use for frozen foods.

I have a fairly large space that I can squeeze in a refer so I had to choose a refer that would fit. I came up with a Norcold. DE0788B with 3.1 cu. ft. 12VDC/120VAC combo.
  I could have gone bigger but the outside dims would only allow this one to get over the stove.

Also I have this small compartment that has been useful for storing breads. The portable is attached to a larger compartment cover that is hinged. So I had to cut an angle in the lid so it could still be raised with the new refer in place.

The base for the new refer...................

Had to install a 120VAC outlet for the new refer.

I painted the small compartment white for better visibility in the darkness.

Here with the base above the small compartment.

Here with the refer installed.